KÄGI AND NAKATA CROWNED U17 BOULDER WORLD CHAMPIONS IN ARCO
A spectacular and unpredictable day of Boulder competition delivers technical challenges, thrilling finals and outstanding performances from the world’s best young climbers
ARCO, ITALY – 24 JULY 2026 – The World Climbing Youth Championship Arco 2026 continued with a full day dedicated to the U17 Boulder semifinals and finals.
The international route-setting team created a complex and varied set of problems designed to test the athletes across every aspect of modern competition climbing.
Physical sequences pushed the climbers’ strength, endurance and flexibility to the limit, while dynamic movements demanded maximum explosiveness. Technical slabs, small footholds and difficult holds also challenged their coordination, balance and precision.
SAIKI AND NAKATA LEAD THE MEN’S SEMIFINAL
The men’s semifinal was dominated by Japan’s Taketo Saiki and Kazuki Nakata, the only two athletes able to complete all four problems.
Saiki finished at the top of the standings with 99.4 points, narrowly ahead of Nakata, who scored 99.1.
Slovenia’s Lovro Tomažin and South Korea’s Jungyoon Choi followed with 84.7 points each, securing their places among the eight finalists.
TAN SETS THE PACE IN THE WOMEN’S SEMIFINAL
In the women’s competition, China’s Youtian Tan delivered the standout performance of the semifinal.
Tan was the only athlete to complete all four problems, earning 99.3 points and qualifying in first place.
Italy’s Chiara Franceschi delighted the home crowd with three tops and one zone, finishing second with 84.6 points. China’s Meini Li followed just one tenth of a point behind on 84.5, confirming the extremely narrow margins separating the leading contenders.
NAKATA CLAIMS THE MEN’S U17 WORLD TITLE
Later in the afternoon, a packed Arco Climbing Stadium provided the setting for the U17 World Championship finals.
The technical and selective problems highlighted the talent of the world’s leading young climbers and produced an intense competition in front of an enthusiastic international crowd.
Japan’s Kazuki Nakata delivered an exceptional performance to claim the men’s U17 Boulder world title. Nakata was the only athlete to complete all four final problems, finishing with 99.3 points.
His teammate Taketo Saiki secured the silver medal with three tops and 74.7 points, completing a Japanese one-two finish.
South Korea’s Hayool Lee earned the bronze medal with 59.5 points.
Fellow South Korean Jungyoon Choi finished fourth, ahead of Slovenia’s Lovro Tomažin in fifth and Japan’s Takumi Nakayama in sixth. Indonesia’s Ardana Cikal Damarwulan placed seventh, while Italy’s Leonardo Donola completed the final in eighth position.
KÄGI WINS A THRILLING WOMEN’S FINAL
The women’s final remained open and unpredictable until the last problem, with the podium positions decided by the smallest margins.
Switzerland’s Amélie Kägi produced an outstanding performance to become the women’s U17 Boulder World Champion, finishing with 84.1 points.
China’s Youtian Tan claimed silver with 83.9 points, just two tenths behind the winner, while her teammate Meini Li secured the bronze medal with 69.2.
Italy’s Chiara Franceschi narrowly missed the podium, completing her first World Championship in an excellent fourth place.
South Korea’s Yun Seo Noh finished fifth, followed by individual neutral athlete Mariia Silkina in sixth, Romania’s Maya Ene in seventh and Germany’s Olivia Kistmacher in eighth.
MAYA ENE RECEIVES THE LUCE DOUADY AWARD
The Luce Douady Award was also presented during the day.
The award honours the memory of the 2019 Youth World Champion, who tragically passed away at only 16 years of age, and recognises the athlete who best represents the values of fairness, positivity and sportsmanship.
Luce’s father presented the award to Romania’s Maya Ene, who was recognised for approaching every stage of the competition with a smile and with the same enthusiasm that always characterised Luce.
U19 BOULDER TO CLOSE ARCO 2026
With the U17 competition completed, attention now turns to the final act of the World Climbing Youth Championship Arco 2026.
The U19 Boulder semifinals and finals will take place on Saturday, starting at 9:00 a.m., bringing the World Championship programme to its conclusion.